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Numbers

 

Maker Number
            The Maker’s number is usually cast in embossment or intaglio on the body of the mould (GL +GN numbers are usually on a hinge or handle.) The number is usually on the outside, but Hermann Walter of Berlin usually and very occasionally 2 others have the number inside. This is indicated in my lists by a “i” after the number. Most makers put their number on only one piece of he mould. A few put their number on each piece.
            One unknown maker of a "new set of clear toy moulds" sold by Crandal and Godley in the early 1900's identify the moulds by letters (A-L) of five different cavities each.
N=New Series, O=Old Series

Pair Number
            Not all double moulds of the same shape, even from the same maker match perfectly. So owners who have a number of moulds of the same shape have put on the matching parts “pair numbers” They have usually placed the numbers symmetrically on the two halves of the mould. I have entered these as “#/#” in Shape.

WHT Number
            Not all makers of the moulds have been identified. Nor do we have catalogues for all the makers, as a source for numbers. Some makers did not put numbers on their moulds, particularly at first. Some put the same number on moulds of different shapes. So it became necessary to put our number on the mould They are written on the mould or printed on a label.
            Years ago our primitive computer ran out of capacity and we had to divide our records into 3 groups: I= ice cream; C= chocolate; T= clear toy ie BS. This mean 3 runs, one for each group to span the whole group. With new larger capacity computers we have been able to combine the groups for unified searches. But the letters still drift around. For a while we tried decimals to keep like moulds together, but it didn’t work. When we have inadvertently bought duplicates or when we bought duplicates for the candy business we have identified these moulds by letters added to the WT number. The # symbol used before a number identifies it as a WHT number. It is used under the photos followed by a maker's abbreviation. Please use these to find the original photograph of the mould.

 

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